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As a
friend tries to remind me, as long as there's beer and potatoes in
the world, life will be good ...
I
remember now. It's not quite as clear as it used to be, but the
memory is true. There were only a few of them. Really, not many.
They just loom so large in my mind. They are the most vivid memories
I have. For me they always sprang from a struggle. Sometimes a very
quiet, almost silent inner struggle. At other times from very loud
and public one. In all instances two things were always common.
First, I was on the edge (on one occasion actually with one foot way
over the edge). Second, I always came out of the struggle, came back
from the edge, stronger, better. It never mattered what the struggle
was about, what triggered it, what put me on the edge. My response
was always the same. Always physical. Always involved pushing myself
to some limit. Putting it all at risk.
When
I paint my masterpiece ...
The
first occasion was over thirty years ago. I have no clear
understanding of what it was that put me on the edge, what was
troubling me. Maybe it had to do with facing life on my own. Being
totally responsible for my decisions and actions. Maybe it had to do
with losing my first girl friend. Whatever it was, I wound up on a
deserted stretch of beach only a few miles from the of Long Island
on a September weekend. A storm had been brewing all week. I watch a
perfectly calm and flat ocean grow increasingly violent, dangerous,
wild and inviting. the morning dawn almost silently, perfect blue
sky. Then it happened. A wild crack. Not lightening, not a car, that
unmistakable sound of the ocean, finally conquering a strong off
shore wind and tons of water crashing down on itself. I very slowly
climbed out of my sleeping bag and out of the trailer onto the
beach. Silently I walked toward the ocean, only a hundred yards
away. As I crested the last dune, I heard it again, that bone
rattling crack of a wave breaking. A perfect wave breaking against a
strong off shore wind. As my eyes adjusted to the sun and the glare
off the water my heart froze. There was a perfect 8 foot wave
curling over and breaking right on the beach. I was terror stricken.
This was what I had come here for, was I ready for it? As I raced
back to the trailer, my buddies had already started making their way
over the dunes and were taking in the awesome sight. We wasted time
getting ready. Screwing up our courage I'm sure. Finally, eight of
us paddled out. The first three never got past that awesome shore
break. Five of us now paddle with everything we had to get past the
inside break. Three more didn't make it. They were swept a mile down
the beach before they were able to get back onto the beach. That
left two of us paddling out past the break, turning and waiting for
the next set. Our hearts in our mouths, un able to speak, we watch
as a set came marching towards us. The first waves past under us and
started to break, the beach was blocked from out sight. These were
the by far the largest waves we had attempted to surf. We were both
good surfers, strong and skilled. But, we knew we were way out of
our league here. As the next set came through we started to paddle
into one of the early waves. As I hung on the lip of this wave,
staring down its vertical face, the off shore wind blowing me back
and out of the wave, I realized these waves were well over 20 feet
high.
When
you feel this way,
When you feel this way,
I can find out anything about you ...
The
next set came rolling in, I paddled furiously into a wave, just as I
thought I was going to get blown back out of this wave too, I stood
up, step forward and forced the nose of my board down the face of
the wave. Suddenly gravity took over and I started to slide down the
face of the wave. The acceleration was incredible. As I hit the
bottom
I leaned hard to turn to the right. As the board came around and I
looked up, I saw the entire face of the wave starting to break. Sh*t,
I'm heading right into the breaking wave. With every once of
strength, I pulled my board back to the left and away from the white
water. I trimmed the board and tucked up into the curl. As the wave
started to break over me, I thought I didn't have enough speed to
out run it and threw my arms up into the air in resignation of the
awful wipeout I was heading for.
There
are only so many doors you can try,
until you finally find your way ...
and there are only so many tears you can cry ...
Just
as I thought I had bought lunch, the wave curled over me, formed a
perfect 15 foot tube and blasted me out and on to the shoulder. I
had survived, succeeded and learned much from being on the edge, at
the brink. Eight hours later I paddled into the beach, sat quietly
for a long time watching an awsome ocean and giving thanks for being
alive, so very alive.
A
simple twist of fate ...
Another
time, over twenty years later. This time it was a very visible and
clear crisis. I had taken one more step than I was allowed. I had
lost much, almost everything. It was a wonder I was alive.
I
started by running 8 milers. It was about all I could do. I couldn't
really go much farther. I couldn't sit home and not run. This wasn't
a choice, this was necesity. The 8 milers stretched into 11 milers.
They became faster. Some days I'd feel depressed, sluggish,
unwilling to make any effort. I just forced one step, just one step
up the hill. No promises, no expectations. Just go out the door and
take that first step.
I keep forgiving,
I keep forgetting,
I keep expecting you to change.
You say you will,
You say you will,
You say you will,
But you never do ...
After
a while, the 11 miles became my salvation. That one time during each
day, that one thing in my life I had total control over. Some days
I'd start easy, when I turned around I'd start to accelerate and by
the time I finished I'd be screeming, hammering. The weekly milage
never really got very high. I had done 80, 90 and 100 mile weeks in
the past. Now I was only doing 70 to 80. Weekends were long runs.
Not long slow distance, just long. Into the city around the park and
back home. Solid pace, sometimes into the city and then do a race. I
was building strength. Emotional, psychological strength as much as
physical strength. I had no choice, get strong or perish. I ran a 50
K in July. Hot, humid and hilly. I had no expectations. I just
wanted to run, be with people and work hard. About the middle of the
race I became frightened that a friend that had started late would
pass me. It was irrational, I actually had no idea what my pace was,
or where I was in the race. The last 3 miles I felt like I would not
finish. Stomach cramps had me doubled over. Some how I gained enough
strength to finish strong. A month later I attempted my first multi
day race. Three days for a total of 100 miles. I was with out
expectations, I didn't know if I'd be able to finish. the first day
I ran a lot with a freind. We talked about the race, about running,
about my troubles, about life, about how frightened I was. I
finished, again worrying if another friend would pass me. He didn't,
but we had two more days to go, and he was a lot more experienced at
this stuff than I was. The next day dawn and I returned to the
starting line. This day was on a course I had run before and knew
well. There was a six hour race being held at the same time, so
there were a lot more people running. This day I ran mostly alone.
Keeping to my own pace and my own thoughts. I don't remember much of
that day, but I do remember be very surprised when I finished in
second place. I felt surprisingly good, better even than I did the
first day. The third day dawned and I got lost on the way to the
start.
I arrived just minutes before the race was to start. I was sore, so
I didn't mind starting slow and taking my time. I only wanted to
finish the last 33 miles. With just over one lap to go, the friend I
ran with on day one came up on my shoulder. We chatted and he
mentioned he was finishing. It was the only time in the three days
that I ran competitively. I refused to be lapped. The last quarter
of a mile on that loop I pushed to stay ahead of him. He finished, I
continued on my last lap and finished.
A
simple twist of fate ...
I
found out that I finish that day in third place. I was fourth on day
one, second on day two and now third. I was extremely pleased. My
troubles were out of my mind for the time being. I was exhausted,
and pleased. The only thing that existed was that moment, the
present. The past and the future were things that had no meaning
anymore. At the small and brief awards ceremony I found out I had
finished third overall. I went home, soaked a bit in the pool, had a
beer and took a nap.
This
wasn't done conciously, this wasn't done with a serious training
program in mind. This was pure survival. This was HELL. I was on the
edge. I'd wake up in the middle of the night screaming with fear.
Come on baby let's get out of this town,
Got a full tank of gas and the top rolled down ...
Baby
you can sleep while I drive ...
In
mind, there's little difference between the two experiences. They
both were born from discomfort with where my life was at the time.
The responses were the same, push my limits, go directly to the
edge, test my faith. What doesn't kill me makes me stronger, and
better.
I've
been sensing it's about to happen again. I'm feeling restless,
uncomfortable with where I am, with the way I'm living my life.
Idiot
wind blowing everytime you move your teeth ...
NLC
- in NJ
... I can hold my temper, I can bide my
time. I can hold my own I'm the restless kind ...
Come
in she said,
I'll give you shelter from the storm ...
Neil L. Cook
"The road goes on forever, the party never ends."
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